Cytat:Ozone 3 includes all the tools you need to master the commercial sound in seconds. Professionally designed presets and the acclaimed Ozone Mastering Guide walk you step by step through making radio-ready masters.

The process of mastering ranges from correcting mistakes made in the mix to preparing a recording for target listening environments. Like a final coat of polish, mastering makes the difference between a good sounding mix and a professional sounding master. Ozone includes integrated tools for each step of the process: add broad equalization to balance the tone, multiband compression to control the dynamics, harmonic excitation to inject punch and sparkle, stereo imaging to sculpt the sound stage, loudness maximization to raise the level of the entire track to the standard for commercial use, and dither to maintain every last bit of quality. Since Ozone was designed to address the mastering process, all the components work together to help you put that final professional sound on a project. With Ozone 3, be prepared to love your sound.

Professionally Designed Presets
Ozone 3 ships with a wide array of presets for many mastering situations. Get immediate results by auditioning several presets to find the closest fit. Spend less time tweaking and more time producing. For more control, mix and match preset settings using the advanced preset manager. Visit the iZotope web site, and learn tricks of mastering from the presets and Mastering Guide.

7 Plug-ins in 1 Integrated Interface
Mastering requires a specific set of tools, and Ozone 3 has them all. Rather than a bundle of separate plug-ins, Ozone 3 is a single integrated system. This integration allows for a logical, optimized interface and superior sound quality not possible with a chain of independent plug-ins. With extensive metering, an integrated preset system, and full undo history, Ozone surpasses standard “plug-in” expectations to streamline workflow, save time, and keep you focused on creative work.

Analog Modeling
Ozone is the result of extensive research in analog modeling. Ozone provides compression, equalization, and harmonic excitation that recreate the behavior exhibited by analog equipment. Analog processing has certain nonlinear aspects that a mathematician would consider "wrong" but sound better musically. Any analog equalizer, for example, applies a small phase delay to the sound. These types of “imperfections” provide the analog characteristics of warmth, sparkle, depth, and an overall pleasing sound. Ozone captures the essence of analog gear to deliver sweet sounding masters.

Digital Precision
While analog modeling can provide a pleasant character or “colorization” to the sound, in some situations precise or “transparent” signal processing is desired. For example, you may wish to equalize or notch out a frequency without introducing the phase delay inherent in analog filters. For these applications, Ozone provides a digital, linear phase equalizer and crossover for a level of surgical precision not possible in analog hardware.

64-bit Audio Processing
When processing audio, Ozone can perform thousands of calculations on a single sample. In a digital system, each of these calculations has a finite accuracy, limited by the number of bits used in the calculation. To avoid rounding errors from interfering with the audible portion of the audio, Ozone performs each calculation using 64 bits. Can you hear 64 bits? No, but that’s the point. The rounding errors (inherent not just in Ozone but in any digital system) are pushed down into the inaudible range with Ozone.

Usability Enhancements: Undo and History
Ever have a late night recording session only to wake up in the morning with a tinny, horrible-sounding master? Audio fatigue is a real problem, and in this situation you would have to scrap the work and re-master the track. Ozone 3 addresses this problem with the ability to undo any and all parameter changes – even between sessions! As you tweak controls, each movement is captured and displayed in the History list. To hear a previous setting, simply click up the list to the point you want to audition. When working with mastering effects, perhaps most notably EQ and dynamics, it’s very easy to get accustomed to the “new” sound and overdo the effect. The History list lets you quickly jump back for comparisons to refresh your “auditory memory”.

Cytat:

Rar pass: www.2baksa.net

Cytat:http://depositfiles.com/files/832603

Cytat:
i ran one for about 50k miles.

it was the original jeff jeske unit, and he had several thousand miles on the tranny before i got it. Mine had the green springs, which are less aggressive than the gold ones that are offered.

it pretty much did what it was supposed to do... ie: turned one wheel burnouts into both wheels getting traction. torque steer during on-throttle shifts was greatly reduced also.

This helped marginally with getting started, but if you're putting a decent amount of power to the ground, it won't prevent you from lighting up the tires. it'll just more consistently make sure you're putting power to both wheels.

It was unobtrusive.. you'd feel it "click" on really tight turn situations (parallel parking) - similar to a "real" lsd. The person who had the audible clicking LIKELY took too much material off the spider gears and or PG unit when installing. Mine was tight, and i had zero audible clicking. you would "feel" it, a very slight pop of sorts, when doing tight parking. Occassionally you would feel it on ice, specifically slushy conditions where you'd be getting into and out of traction. If you've ever driven a 4wd vehicle with an auto disengaging center diff, the slight skip or pop you would feel was very very similar. this was my daily driver in an urban setting, and it never felt cumberson or obtrusive. only the very astute who ever rode in my car would pick up on the fact that it had some sort of lsd, unless i told them. Believe me, i have no love for the PG either... my current tranny is an open diff, and when i decide on my transmission upgrade path, i'll be going with a whole differential unit, rather than an add on such as this. BUT, for the miles i had it.. much of then hard driven, raced (not just in a straight line) and all boosted... i feel it performed well.

ultimately however, the transmission i had it in grenaded, because of the PG.. The diff pin in between the spider gears sheared in half, and tore a hole through the tranny case. The same exact thing has happened to several other PG users (inside a 2g trans at least)

welding the diff pin would help alleviate this problem, as aside from the shearing, i saw no excess wear on parts of the diff pin i found lol.

When i removed the trans, i didn't notice a single drop of excess wear on the spider gears either (they have to be cut down a bit to fit the pg unit in there... and way back when, there was some speculation that this would then become the weak point)

Mine was likely among the higher mileage PG installs that saw most of its life with boosted power... but eventually, it did die of the same diff pin failure that has plagued others. At least though, i can say with confidence, our spider gears are plenty strong lol.

It's still a viable option, IMO, if you can do the work yourself. If you're paying someone else, the costs are such that you might as well get a mazdaspeed torsen type.

the PG is not *as* good as a true torsen type, but it did what it promised. i never had a 1 wheeler with it installed, and no pulling during hard accel. entering/exiting corners, it was unobtrusive. it does place more pressure on the diff pin, and this ultimately is it's downfall.. you can't fit a thicker one in... at least not without major work to the surrounding components, at which point you should explore other options anyway.

Cytat: I was lucky enough to get to play around with one of the Lux' at AAPP on Sunday March 31st. Everyone seems to be begging for answers so I figure ill put as much as I can right here.

Picking up the gun for the first time, I was very happy with how it feels. I am taller, with a bigger core (almost 3 foot shoulder span) and it felt about an inch or so shorter then where I would really like it, however, it is longer then most guns on the market. The longer gun provided great room for my fingers, and an amazing balance. At 1.6 lbs the gun was super light.

The gun I was using did have the gas through, The new max flow on-off is even better then before, putting 2 opposite forces of pressure on a center mass makes turning the knob very very easy. Once the air was on, there is a small button on the back of the gun under what I believe was 4 small square LEDs and 2 larger LED's.

When the gun turned on it said "PSP Mode, Battery 100%" I also assume that the 4 LEDs indicate the battery level, as they changed durring the day. To turn the eyes off I pressed the power button again and it said "Vision Off" the blue LED to the left of the power button now turned red.

The gun shot very smooth, and felt very easy to shoot, I play PSP, so ramping is pretty much all I use, but I was able to get on the trigger very very quickly. With no paint the gun was very quiet, it just felt happy. There was no awkwardness to switching hands.

After a few shots I turned the air off, and popped the back off. It lifts up just like you would a pop can, there is a small metal pin that is attached to the "lift" part that holds it in the body. The lift is pretty easy to pull, and the bolt slides right out. Everything comes out in 1 solid piece, a nice improvement over the shocker, where it was rather difficult to get the can out of the shocker. Once out, the can unscrews from the chrome back and then lifts right off the bolt. I believe it had 5 orings down the outside and 2 orings down the center (my count may be off, I am trying to recall from memory) the bolt and bolt guide combination is pretty much similar to that of a shocker. There is a hollow bolt with a stationary guide. I know in the animations the guide is moving, however, that is not the case. Thats it for dissemble, it was all the way apart..

The eye covers are held on with magnets, to open them you first have to squeeze the small end then pry open the larger end. They are not difficult to do, but it does require a good amount of force to open. I couldn't imagine these falling off during a game.. Your feed neck will break first.

The ball detents are located on the silver plate, they are angled so the bolt actually passes over them and can help "Un jam" them in a problem. The eye covers are very easy to replace, simply slip the small end in, and then let the magnet do its job. Just some FYI the eyes are red break beam eyes.

The trigger has no adjustments on the face of the trigger, there is one at the top, one behind the face, and 2 on the side of the grip. This makes adjusting your trigger very easy (more so for the the ones on the side of the grip). I was also told that there is a trigger block that keeps you from crushing your micro-switch. Obviously this is a safety feature, and if you were to put your activation screw back all the way I am sure you could do damage, but I know I broke 1 or 2 in my days.. so its a good thing to add..

The audible alerts are very nice, loud, and clear. People looking for something to ***** about will pick on this "Why isn't it a LCD, blah blah blah" because its not.. But the British sounding lady in the gun is easy to understand. There are several different languages, however you are not able to change the voice at this time.

Shooting paint was everything I expected, 15bps ropes of paint. It is very quiet and very smooth. There is something about it that just feels different, I can't quite get my finger on it yet, there is no "pop" to the shot.. I just can't figure it out yet, but when I do you will be the first to know...

Some other things... The barrel is a impulse thread barrel, it takes freak inserts. The gas through is VERY nice, it as my first time using one, and I did like it.. A lot. From the looks of things the reg on the front is where you adjust the velocity through the bottom, so they went back to the allen key from the wrench, also, imho a good idea.

The reason you can not see a seam on the gun where the frame attaches to the grip is because there isn't one. It slides on like a rail giving it a very nice, short look.

The bolt face is slighty different, it is a circle with 3 pie shapes. Almost exactaly like the back of a shocker now.

my ONLY concern about this gun.. The "pop top" back has resistance when you pull it up, this resistance is an oRing acting like a rubber band. I can see this oRing breaking ALOT. And when it does, it may spell disaster until it is replaced...

If I missed anything, feel free to ask..

-X